The Life I Lead

The last few days have been the happiest I've had since being here.  This is inherently because I decided I would do the things I needed for myself.  I gave myself the emotional and physical sustenance I needed through out the week and as a result the weekend and the work week have been awesome.  That doesn't mean I didn't get crabby.  This doesn't mean I was spectacularly loving and unselfish.  What it does mean is that I allowed myself to consciously choose to enjoy myself and enjoy my day and enjoy the people around in it. 

The weekend was uneventful as always.  A few meetings, relaxing by the pool and enjoying the presence of my friend Sandee who's joy with living is so completely enthralling that its catching. 

Sandee's joy is infectious and her unwillingness to put up with my crap is refreshing.  Laying buy her pool simply coexisting was delightful and meeting her teacher who prayed with me and allowed me to be open minded to change allowed a rebirth of sorts.  I shut the old doors and opened new ones. 

Monday proved to be highly eventful as well.  As a sub-project Divya and I have taken on "Warm Heart Tours" which we're hoping to be a subsidiary of Warm Heart that will provide sustainable income for the organization and well as boosting the local economy.  The tours will be marketed to tourists who are looking for a real cultural experience and want to enjoy the Thai countryside.  In order to plan out the tours we're seeking out the gems of the Phrao subdistrict.  As I'm sure you can imagine the adventures in this area are limitless.

Adventures are my new favorite.

For a woman such as me, who isn't a big fan of nature or direct sunlight you'd think adventures in the northern mountains of thailand would annoy me.  But for whatever reason this isn't the case.  In fact its quite the opposite.  We discovered a second waterfall, a few local businesses that would be great for tourists to see, a sugar factory and even a local bungalow/guesthouse who is giving us a cut of whatever rooms we book with them through the tours.  We got to see Aomdoi in detail (a local resort) and the coolest temple of all time.

The crew adventuring by the falls.

Sting Dolls made by local artisens... I purchased these two muay thai guys...

The sugar factory owner posing by his kubota machine

Sugar Cane sugar factory-- they've been making it this way for hundreds of years!

I know I know, you're thinking.. "Hannah, another temple? Seriously?" well, yes seriously.  This particular temple is situated on a mountain and under that mountain is a bat cave.  Atop it a HUGE reclining Buddha greets visitors.

This particular cave houses thousands upon thousands of bats and its vastness is only discovered when you get about halfway down the steps into the cave.  Before entering ancient slabs of rock that have been there since time began are on either side as you enter.  The slabs are engraved with ancient forms of Thai scripture.  The place is holy and its vastness is only equaled by the intense smell of bat guano which covers the steps into the cavern. 

Entrance to the cave.. sadly you can't see the bats because of my flash

These inscriptions aren't very old but the pink buddha on the bottom right is actually caved out of the stone and has been there for centuries.

At the bottom of cavern is an ancient Buddha where only the pious (and the crazy) come to worship.  Getting down there with out a flashlight and a breathing mask is nearly impossible but the adventure of it all? Totally stellar.  On the exterior of the mountain is a huge reclining buddha, elephant statues that are bigger than the real thing and steps that go up and up and up. 

At the top of of the mountain is tiled platform adorned with another buddha and bells.  The platform gives way to a view of the entire valley of Phrao.  The entire valley is set out before you and the green lushness of the place hits you, the smoke fires dwindle upward miles away, the dirt and paved roads wind around seemingly as ancient as the temple we're standing on. 

The view is breathtaking but its more than that.  Its as if I'm in another world and I must ask myself.  How did I deserve this? How did I get this job?  How in the world does a girl like me get to a place of beauty like this?! As I reached the top and saw the richness of it all laid before me I was brought to tears.  I felt completely unworthy of such beauty.  Regardless of how I felt I claimed it, owned it and embraced it.  This wasn't my home or my land but for the moment when tears blurred my vision it most certainly could have been.

Yes, I'm a dork.

Another Day in the Neighborhood.

Thai adventures never cease to amaze me.  I seriously step out of the office for just one day and things turn a little haywire.. in a good way.

This past thursday was such an occasion. Divya (my volunteer/partner in crime) and I were working on our tourism idea (bring sustatinable income to Warm Heat and increasing local economy through tourism packages to the country).  In order to work on this idea we have to get a good idea of what the attractions are in the area. Phrao, for such a small town, is actually full of cool things.  There's a horse trekking place (owned by a german guy named Boris), at least two waterfalls, a temple thats situated in a batcave, and spa that charges 400 baht for two hours (about 12 bucks) of pure bliss and bungalow after bungalow that sits empty.  So, in the name of research Divya and I set off (with a few thai guides) on our motorbikes to check out the other waterfall.

Neither of our guides decided to tell us that we'd be off roading on clay roads on motor bikes up and down the lower hills of a mountain range. Nor do they explain that they're not exactly sure where they are going.  After driving around in one big circle, Divya's bike getting stuck and a hard ride we give up and head over to the horse trekking place to meet Boris. 

Boris is probably one of the most interesting people I've met since being in Thailand... which is saying something when you think of the characters I've met thus far.  He's married to a Lasu woman and also had a grandchild running around as well.  The treks he does are up in the jungles of the hilltribe people and range from a few days to over a week.  The horses are the short stocky kind and instead of beautiful are more "we're the kind of horses that get shit done".  Let me tell you, it takes a certain kind of crazy to lead horse treks through the mountain junlges of northern thailand with only the hilltribe people for company.  Boris, obviously, was a wealth of information.  

Regardless by time we were done with an offroad adventure (which I can't fully explain the awesomeness of), talked with an East German horse dude named Boris and then made it home we were properly exhausted.  

Monday...we will find that damn waterfall. Adventure awaits!

Honor, Reputation & Gain

What we learn on the journey is often more important that what we intended to learn by the journey's end.  True story.  The things we learn on the way to learning other things is probably more important than anything else.  Let me explain.

At Bryn Athyn College (my awesome alma mater) I learned epic amounts of communication skills.  If it was learning how to explain that my sermons weren't sermons but "talks" (god forbid a woman preach) or creating petitions for equal rights or creating a mentor program on top of a new club... I had to learn how to communicate with the same people over and over who adored me on some issues and were annoyed with me on others.  I learned how to put personalities aside for the sake of principles... the issues I fought for weren't about me they were about the people I was trying to serve.  I had to put aside my own anger, frustration and fears in order to get what I needed from the people in charge.  This learning experience taught me how to communicate effectively, how to manipulate only when necessary and how to not be afraid to address my issues to authority figures (after all, what it boils down to is that we are all human).

Today I used those skills to express my needs at Warm Heart, to let my boss know where I was at and what I'd need in order to be effective.  When it was all said and done I can honestly say that the conversation was probably the most productive communication I've had in a long while.  I'm realizing that instead of stewing in my shit sometimes I just need to say a prayer and push forward.  I also realize that communicating with my boss might be easy enough and getting what I need is only a conversation away. What isn't so easy is communicating with the Thai government.  This conversation went from communicating my needs to him communicating to me the reality of the situation.

Let me explain.  If you've been reading my blog then we are all familiar with Mr. Manat.  On many levels Mr. Manat is kind and endearing and is at least attempting to do something different. Yet, on many levels, him and his department are still very much thai.  They not only believe that soccer will help kids off yabaa (meth) they also have no desire to learn different.  In thailand the success of a program and its leaders is determined by the two simple measures: did you plan and implement the program AND did you spend the budget.  Thats it.  So, if they know that kids are addicted to yabaa the program no longer becomes about playing soccer and spending the budget.  The program becomes about getting kids to stop using yabaa... the measures of success now have changed from running a simple program and spending money to the success being about whether fewer kids are doing yabaa or not... a scary measure. Getting kids off yabaa ain't no joke. 

This is inherently the problem. This is a nation where saving face and hididng the problem in name of a good reputation rules. Success and plaques and recognition are more important than how much money you have in the bank there is no hope of starting a program that has huge potential to fail.  REALITY: People will save face and reputations and they will keep their recognition and the children will die.  They will die.  Yabaa is not a joke. It is not funny.  It does not go away with a damned soccer game.  As my boss tells me this reality I can see the frustration-- we are not only fighting a culture that turns a blind eye... we are fighting people who are more concerned with honor, reputation and gain then they are with their children living a good life. 

For sure not everyone is like this.  For sure there are many who want change.  But for this volunteer the sadness is epically awful.  A few of you have asked "I don't know how you're there" and my response is that I don't know how i could NOT be here.  How could I be anywhere else?  They build their reputations and children die.  It seems as Warm Heart got their hands on a woman like me that doesn't give two shits and a rats ass about reputation.... so what do we do? Where is the solution?  In a place where our stability and presence in Phrao is only as good as our relationships with the Mr. Manats of the world how do we become an effective force?  We disregard the rules of the game... we do things the sneaky manipulative way (for the greater good of course).

We'll help Mr. Manat.  We'll do everything we can to lend our support while allowing him to be fully in charge and allowing him to gain all the "recognition" of the program.  And very quietly in the southern side of the district where village life and poverty and tons of alcohol and yabaa reign we will slowly begin to love a population of the unloved.  We'll accept them no matter what.  We'll take 'em in and have them help us clean up the building we'll be using (lord knows they got nothing else to do) and we will slowly and calmly move in and do what we do best... we'll offer them a warm heart.

We're currently about $500 short of the budget needs to fix up the building we'll be using for the program (it will house a preschool program, trainings for those of disabilities and the teen program I'm working on as well).  If you'd like to be a part of the process feel free to lend your encouragement and aid through monetary donations.  They are tax deductible and can be made at www.warmheartworldwide.org  Thanks for reading,

Love & Rice,

Hannah

Always Been Faithful

The Monday Shuffle

Mondays are never the easiest.. even in a tropical paradise.  The hospital stay passed without a whole lot of answers but plenty of antibiotics and a bill that set my budget back a bit.  Its how the world turns I suppose.  If nothing else monday came with a schedule and consistency (both are things I love). Flickr has been updated at http://www.flickr.com/photos/warmheartworldwide/ while the monday volunteer blog went up on time and as scheduled (http://warmheartworldwide.tumblr.com/) which is a nice change of pace.

My vast myriad of emails and chat messages appealing for help and advice on my program went out this afternoon and now I'm awaiting replies and some guidance.  How does one know which drug test kits to purchase in america? How does one get around an import tax? Which ones work best? are they all the same?  How am I gonna get teenagers to piss in a friggin' cup!!! These are all questions to which I do not completely know the answer to but thanks to some good connections in the U.S. I'm quickly learning.  Beyond the cultural barriers in Thailand the realization is that I still have a lot to learn.  I'm attempting to stay in the humility of it all.  It can be quite overwhelming.

Otherwise, Monday is shaping up quite nicely and I'm, for the part, getting back into the groove of the week.  Life is good and I'm feeling more balanced overall.  Perhaps the hospital trip was the jolt I needed to get myself back on track physically, emotionally and spiritually.

Love & Rice,

Hannah

Update from the Hospital

Unattachment is Key: Surprise Meetings and Speeches

You simply cannot be attached to your schedule in this country.  If you get attached to it you’re going to be sorely frustrated.  Tuesday morning started with a surprise meeting with Mr. Manat… and 30 probation officers.  Now let me tell you, for a girl like me to be surrounded by 30 probation officers in a foreign country is rather scary.  Its like, being surrounded by the enemy in a very odd way. 

So anyway, the meeting begins and of course its all in Thai and PJ was nowhere to be found.  This is frustrating.  I’m sitting in a meeting that obviously needs to happen and they obviously want me at (its culturally important to be present at these things) but I’m not understanding a single thing they say. 20 minutes into the proceedings PJ appears with the Warm Heart projector for later in the meeting (the local government has been borrowing this frequently as of late). 

He sits down and hastily attempted to tell us what the very important (looking) man was saying.  Several people in the course of a few hours spoke.  A probation officer from Chiang Mai who says her biggest struggle is convincing parents that comparing their children to other kids is NOT a good idea and will actually push them to keep using drugs.  Or the Psych nurse (who we met earlier last week) who taught us that because of Yabba (meth) distribution works here she can tell by the pill color of the meth (its all pill form out here) what village they come from. 

Then, Eve (one of the workers in Mr. Manat’s office) approached PJ and asked him if I would give a speech about the youth program we wanted to start and what it would look like…. Now, if you’ve been reading my blog then you are quite aware that my ideas for the youth and THEIR ideas for the youth are two very different ideas.  If I gave a speech on what I hope the youth program looks like then I’ll be offending more than half the top officials in the room.  PJ realizes this and tells them that we’ll present our ideas on the subject at a later time.

Mr. Manat is not the kind of man to be put off.  He approaches PJ and talks to him in Thai.  I do not know much Thai but I know a command when I hear one.  10 minutes later I’m at the front table giving a tentative speech to 30 probation officers and doing my best not to piss anyone off.  I say a few things like my credentials (participating in a program for the last 4 and half years helping others stay off drugs… anonymity for now is super important) and then talk about how we’re working with local officials and will talk to kids about what they need.  I spout out some ideas on what the program will look like and then I close it up.  PJ is, of course translating, and I look over at him and I’m like “soo… are they gonna kill me?” and he says “no, that was good”.  I breathe, nearly crap myself and wait for Divya to give her little speal and then finally leave the meeting. 

At noon I’m finally back at the office getting things done that have now been put off due to the above meeting.  Well, score one for not pissing off local authorities and making myself known to a bunch of people as someone who has experience.  We’ll see how it plays out.

Cultural Experience #47: Movie Theatre Goodness

Movie going seems to be such an American past time doesn’t it?  I suppose for the most part it very much is.  But the movie going expiernce in Thailand is a world in and of itself.  To start with, movie theatres are run like actual theatres in America. Your ticket has a seat number and row letter and you sit in your assigned seat or you will face the angry frustration of your Thai counterparts.

The best part of the entire movie experience is the incredibly odd commercials.  Before the movie and in between the first few movie trailers there are very interesting (read: hilarious) commercials.  My personal favorite (note sarcasm) is the chili sauce commercial. 

Let me play it out for you:  Chili sauce used to be homemade but it took hours of labor so now why make it at home? You can buy it in a can and spend more time with your family (so far, not a bad idea) but then cartoon onions, tomatoes and hot peppers are soooo sad.  They are crying and kicked out of the house because who needs fresh vegetables? We can get our Chili sauce in a can damn it!   

Scene change: The onion, tomato and chili pepper are walking in the rain crying and depressed.  Scene change: The hot pepper is standing on the rail of a bridge (and I shit you not) proceeds to commit suicide off the bridge.  Now, call me a sensitive American but I don’t really find fresh vegetables committing suicide due to abandonment issues amusing.  But no, the entire crowd in the theatre chuckles. THEY CHUCKLE at the chili pepper suicide.  

So anyway, the previews are ending and you think the movie is about to start: enter in cultural craziness part two.  Anthem to the king.  In Thailand, everyone loves and adores the king.  The thai people would be nothing without their king. They adore the king.  In fact, you are forced to adore their king too.  If, when hearing his anthem, you don’t stand in respect and in silence you risk being reported, arrested and deported immediately.  Say one bad thing about the king: reported, arrested and deported.  The king is awesome.  Seriously, SO cool.  So anyway, right before the movie starts they all stand in quiet reverence while a song and short little film plays honoring the king.  Can you imagine if this played in America for the current president?  Doesn’t matter who it is… they’ll get boos and jeers from the crowd.

The song ends and the film finally begins.  Two things could happen at this point.  One, you’re watching an American movie with Thai subtitles or you’re watching a Thai movie with English subtitles.  If its in English then the greatest thing is hearing something funny on the movie and you start laughing—as if in perfect comedic timing three to five seconds after you laugh THEN the audience starts laughing too. Sometimes.  I have found that subtitles are the death of all things funny.  Or at least, subtitles are the delay of all things funny.  It’s an odd sensation. 

The best is when the Thai joke is lost on the American viewer.  Thai movies are horrid to begin with.  The film quality is usually crap, the acting leaves little to be desired and the effects (if there are any) are poop. However, occasionally you read something in the subtitles that you think was meant to be funny (mostly because the audience is laughing or chuckling) but you didn’t read a single thing that was funny on the screen.  Of course, at this point, you’re referencing the chili pepper suicide and realizing that what Thais find funny and what Americans find funny are two different beasts entirely.  Regardless, you usually start laughing because of the irony.

Needless to say the movie experience is a hilarious one.  I’m still slightly annoyed that Cowboys & Aliens has technically been released but has not made it to the theatres because King Naresuan 4 (a historical drama of epic proportions) is in every movie theatre instead.  Oh well… priorities right?

Realities are Dawning

            Sometimes realizations of reality in a foreign country hit you a few days late.  This is not such a bad thing.  It gives your perspective and allows you to make changes and considerations without the hassle of Thai manners and gives you the break you need to not offend people.  For example, after talking with the psychiatric nurse last week I realized that these people fully FULLY believe that if we start a sports program for these yabba (meth) addicted kids they will willingly put the yabba down and play sports.

            Now, I realize many of you aren’t completely aware of my past but speaking from some serious experience I can tell you that no kid addicted to yabba is going to give two shits about a soccer game.  The last thing you want when swallowing uppers is to play in sports or be social on that kind of level.  But that is the thinking of people in this corner of the world- when they see addiction… they believe that if they offer something super cool to teenagers the teenagers won’t want the drugs anymore.  I’ve tried explaining this isn’t how it will work.  Or that the kids that will come will either come high or won’t be addicts to begin with (which is fine but then we’re not really addressing the problem). It goes unheeded or they tell me “we have to start somewhere”.  I suppose there is an element of truth to this… we do have to start somewhere but if we’re laying a foundation on sand instead of solid ground there’s no point in starting.

            Second reality, there is an adjudicated program that many of these teens who have been caught on or using yabba must go to.  This program consists of meeting with the psychiatric nurse once a week (twice a week for the “bad” kids) to “check in”.  There MIGHT be some therapy offered (she wasn’t specific to who gets the therapy, who the kids are talking to or if it seems to be helping) and some of the “bad ones” even get family therapy (but again she wasn’t specific to the fact of who these “bad ones” are or if the family actually participates).  There are a lot of holes and I’m still not sure if these holes are coming from the language gap or if the nurse is being typical thai by attempting to “save face” and not admit the problem is as bad as it is… probably a bit of both.  The reality, that these kids get little or no emotional support and their real problems behind the drug use go unaddressed, is a real one.

            Third reality, I asked the nurse how often these kids get drug tested.  The kids, being caught with highly addictive substances and made to go to a program so that they stop using drugs, you’d think they’d be tested for said drugs.  Reality? They are not. The kids are not drug tested once. NOT once.  Its not in the budget.  Which means that a large majority of kids in this government program are still actively using (I’m sure a few stop using after being caught and arrested) amphetamines under the noses of their parents and their local government.  And for the few who stop using yabba, alcohol becomes a quick and socially acceptable substitute.  The community either ignores the fact that they haven’t stopped, are in denial or simply ignorant to the real problem.   

            Fourth reality, I discussed 12-step groups with the nurse and asked her point blank what she thought about them and if they could be applied to the kids in this area.  In one short sentence she wrote the program off as a western ideal that could never work for a culture that didn’t like to talk about its problems.  This, of course, doesn’t mean it we won’t do it (people have been wrong before) but it was a depressing thought that the ONLY psychiatric nurse for over 20,000 people wrote of 12-step programs a long time ago.  They are western and unproven in this area.  Reality is that all we need is one Thai person.  Just one.  One thai who is willing to share themselves with a 12 step program who is unafraid of the incredible stigma and is willing to lead by example.  I suppose more will be revealed.

            Creating an evolution in culture is about as hard as creating an evolution in the gene pool.  It seems and often feels as if I’m pushing against an impenetrable wall.  How does one explain the nature of addiction to a people who have swept alcohol addiction under the rug for generations?  How do we create change?  Answer: slowly. Incredibly slowly.  So, onward I go.  Pushing forward ever slowly. 

My HIz--ouse

My Morning in Phrao

Phone Faux Pas, Thai-arazzi and Toilet Manners

In America, if you’re in an important meeting and your phone rings you will get stares of disbelief.  If you picked up said phone and started having a conversation with someone during said important meeting you’ll probably get fired, yelled at and completely ostracized.  If you’re in Thailand however, this is just par for the course.  In a meeting with 20 people yesterday about 10 cell phones went off about 30 times and just about each time the phone was answered.  Some people were nice enough to go out of the room… most were not.  I do not understand it.  Perhaps its because of a cultural phenom of a lack of personal space- because people don’t really have that here.  Perhaps they don’t assume that their phone conversation is invading your need to listen to the important meeting thats going on.  Not that it bothered me anyway—the entire meeting was in Thai so its not like I could understand it but I find it very very interesting.

And just like answering a cell phone mid meeting is odd for us so goes other odd fascinating cultural Thai things.  If you go to a meeting of any sort do not expect paparazzi but you should expect Thai-arazzi.  Thai-arazzi is every known person in the universe.  Every person in the meeting (just about) will have a camera in hand and they will want photo’s of the event.  When a lead local official gets up to speak you would think that Michael Jackson had been resurrected from the dead… the flashes can be incredible.  Every hand shake, speaker shift and powerpoint presentation is worthy of photography.  This means, that if I wanted to (which I do not) I could post every little meeting I’ve had since I’ve been in Phrao (but, on second thought... I will post just one..). Thai-arazzi aside the ever present need to take photos of everything at every interval is something I have never seen before.

Lastly, toilet manners (one of my favorite subjects) in Thailand are both hilarious and awesome.  Firstly, most toilets out in the boonies don’t “flush” in the American standard way of thinking.  Most toilets sit next to either a bucket of water or a basin full of water and inside each is scoop.  After one “takes care of their business” (for lack of better words) you take the scoop and flush a few scoopfuls of water down the toilet to get it down the drain.  In every bathroom there is a trashcan… why? Because when you have low-flow toilets such as these you cannot put toilet paper down there or very quickly you will have a clogged toilet.  Never fun in 90 degree heat with 90% humidity I can assure you.  So things to remember: don’t put toilet paper in the toilet… no matter what! Flush the toilet with the scoop of water (twice is sufficient for number 1 business).

So the next time you’re in Thailand a few things to remember: 1) no worries about your phone ringing in a meeting—nobody cares if you get disrupted, 2) take a camera to even the silliest of events or you will feel incredibly left out 3) toilet paper in this country isn’t for flushing and toilets don’t even really flush anyway. 

Here ends your cultural lesson.

The Problems that Plauge Us: How to Address the Consequences of Cultural Action

Friday and today (being Monday) have been filled with meetings with Mr. Manat (f you’re wondering who that is… read my last blog).  Mr. Manat has now affectionately started calling me Fa-Mui.  The Fa-Mui is a rare orchid, which only grows in the northern region of Thailand.  The orchid needs the right amount of heat and coolness along with moisture that only these mountains seem to produce.  I find this prophetic in a way…  but I digress.

Friday and Monday have been full of meetings.  Friday was much less successful than today.  It was one of those “Thai” days where you have a million things to do and one gets done.  Or half of one.  We got to the town building at 9am on Friday expecting a meeting/conference with other people from Chiang Rai. The problem? Major thunderstorms.  This is not such a big deal for us in America but when you put major thunderstorms (I’m talking torrential down pour) and two lane highways which run along side major river tributaries you have major issues.  By 11:30 the people from Chiang Rai had finally arrived.  And, after a lot of translation, we realized that the people (including Mr. Manat) there along with the people from Chiang Rai were akin to social workers back in the states.

Now this is warm and cozy.  We have social workers meeting to find out how to run better programs for the people in their district.  The kicker? Mr. Manat’s office is completely volunteer based.  Meaning, Mr. Manat and his staff volunteer their time to the youth, elderly, disabled and misfortunate people in the Phrao district in order to ensure their community is a better one.  Until that point, I had no idea. 

Back to the meeting… I actually have no recollection of what happened that day.  They arrived by 11:30 and promptly decided that lunch was in order (which for me was inedible) and then at 12:30ish the meeting (which was supposed to begin at 9) finally started.  They talked about programs and showed a few videos, which PJ dutifully translated (sort of… we were all extremely exhausted from doing nothing all day) and by 2pm we called it a day and left early.

Today was much more productive and timely.  Today was a conference for all the local district (and sub district and sub sub district) leaders.  The conference was on awareness of children’s rights and the problems that plague our district and what might be done to solve these problems—it was much more up our alley and I was able to find out an amazing number of statistics. 

For example, it is estimated that over half of the Thai population has been abused either physically, emotionally, mentally or sexually at some point in there life.  OVER HALF.  It is estimated that over half (54%) of the female population has been molested, raped, sexually abused or forced into sexual labor.  HALF. These numbers include those women forced into the sex trade (most of which come from the hill tribes.. the people that warm heart specifically works with).  In comparison, it is estimated that 25% of women in the united states are sexually abused or molested by the age of 18.  It is no wonder that such a large part of the population resorts to alcohol and drug abuse to escapte the horror. 

Whats more, physical abuses are rampant.  Many “punishments” are achaic and while they were made illegal decades ago people in these districts were either unaware or didn’t care.  The new government is changing how things are done—seminars like the one we were at today told us what these kids were and how parents who practice these abuses (which include caning and burning) could and would be punished.  They talked about the culture to “hide” it from local authorities in order to protect a family’s “good name” and how this should not be done.  Kids have rights. 

Beyond that they talked about how the youth in this area find ways to escape (no small wonder they do) into a world of drugs, alcohol, video games (internet cafes with gaming has become HUGE in this area of the world), sex and motorbike racing.  One guy, a 20 year old kid, was there to represent the youth council in his village.  He told us that he would be our advocate and talk to youth in each village getting leaders in each one (11 in all) to speak with us about the problems facing youth in each village.  Together, with the help of the Thai people who are motivated for change we can address the consequences of such abuses and walk the kids and youth through a program that teaches them a better way to live.

Just before going into the seminar Mr. Manat asked me “Do you think this program will really work?” And I was humbled that he asked me such a question.  Why would I know? But I answered anyway “If we show them how to be good neighbors by example and teach addicted kids how to stay clean—then they can help their friends stay clean.  I think it can work if we teach them how to help each other.  We need to help them find the Buddha within and to show their friends the Buddha within themselves… if we do that… I think it can work.”  And for a moment Mr. Manat seemed relieved.  More will be revealed.

Laying the Foundation: Hell has an Exit

In Thailand its rarely what you know that gets you ahead… its WHO you know.  Warm Heart has made connections in the local government and we have people on our board who are able to connect up with the people, programs and facilities we need in order to complete whatever project we happen to be workin on that the moment.

For me, the project is working with youth in the Phrao area who have been caught with drugs or abusing alcohol.  99% of these kids will be adjudicated to a “recovery” program (which compared to the states is a joke) and have to check in with certain teachers at school, a nurse once a week for a drug test at the hospital and one of the local officials.  These students do not trust their parents, don’t trust these resources and rarely talk about whats really going on with themselves. 

Hand in hand with drugs and drinking is heavy smoking and a lot of unprotected sexual intercourse.  Condoms are something that are often too “embarrassing” to use and as a result teen pregnancy and STD’s are running rampant in the northern country side. None of these issues are being addressed and because of the already participating in high risk behavior with drug and alcohol it is almost guaranteed that they're having unprotected sex as well.

There’s little education about any of these issues and many of the people trying to help these kids don’t give them an opportunity to simply talk about what’s going on but rather use the law to keep them in line.  Anyone with an a past in addictions or a family member who’s an alcoholic or addict knows how rarely the law works—or if it does how rare it continues to work for the long term.  Luckily for us we have a few progressive thinkers who are in prime spots for leadership in Phrao that are invested in the Warm Heart cause.

Mr. Manat is the man to know.  If you want to get anything done he knows the most, interacts the most people and is considered the smartest dude in Phrao.  He is at ever major ceremony (they love ceremonies around here) for every school, public office and major store that opens in Phrao.  He holds some obscure position in the local government building but even PJ (our ever present translator extroadinair) isn’t sure how to explain what Mr. Manat does or what he’s exactly in charge of.  Regardless, Mr. Manat has been working with the local teenagers for a while now that have been adjudicated due to drug use and abuse.

In order to get anything done Warm Heart needed to first approach Mr. Manat.  This youth program is his baby and the people of this community trust him.  Trust, for kids who have been abused by the local legal system is hard to come by in these parts.  So that’s what we did on Tuesday. We sat down with Mr. Manat and talked about what we hoped to address and how we hoped to address it.  He was polite if not indifferent.  They seemed pleasant and I sensed a stand offishness about this American girl who doesn’t speak thai trying to help kids not do drugs.

I looked over at PJ and said “Can you tell them that I have a lot of experience working with people who have done drugs in the past.  Tell them that I’ve helped them stay away from drugs and know some ways that we can help the kids stay away from them too.” PJ dutifully translated and as he was saying it Mr. Manat’s eyes lit up.  I wasn’t some hopeful American with no training and no understanding of what these kids had been through.  I knew what I was doing (regardless of my horrible thai) and I understood what needed to be done.

He quickly launched into Thai about needing to gain their trust, starting fun things for them to do as well and to talking to each one individually so that we can understand what they need. He spoke of how we need to become “their neighbor and friend” not just “the law”.  I have to tell you, for a Thai man who is elderly these are INSANE concepts.  I couldn’t believe that he had such a grasp on what these kids were really needing: someone who cared enough to listen.  He quickly told PJ he would get us access so when they do home visits we can go with them and that we’d start with a smaller group (I found out later that “small” is 30… which is not small!!).  All of a sudden we are working with the top leader in youth drug rehabilitation in northern Thailand.  Now, lets be honest… there isn’t much competition but tomorrow we’re going to a training as he teaches staff from Chiang Rai and Mai Sai on how to interact with youth without involving the law.  He will teach them how to be their neighbor instead of their authority: A novel concept for such an authority driven society.

I broached the idea of talking about life issues in groups and allowing students to voice what might be bothering them each day or each time our program met… he seemed confused by this-- how could them talking to each other help them? Yet he remained open to the idea that something different might actually work.  All in all, the meeting went amazingly well.  He even directed us to the specific teacher at the high school who taught most of these particular kids and asked us to go speak with her to gain support and find out what else the kids might be doing or participating in that was harmful.  She is STOKED about the program and is more than willing to help survey the students to see what other issues they may have as well.

We are laying the foundation for something good and life changing.  Perhaps the youth will look at our attempts as insane and laugh us out of Phrao.  But something tells me that if we treat these kids like our equals or as Mr. Manat says “our neighbor” and give them the love and attention they’ve desperately needed—we will and can create change in this little corner of the world.  There is a solution and hell does indeed have an exit-- now if we can just show it to them we'll be in business.

The Volunteer Revolving Door

The ever-changing landscape of volunteers is like a revolving door at a busy store.  People come and people go and each one contributes and takes away something very special to the family that Warm Heart can often be.  They come from all walks of life, states and other countries, they come from universities and colleges and they come as the wayward traveler looking for a place to call a temporary home.

They focus on everything from medical treatment and hearing tests to microenterprise and teaching English.  They work with Hill Tribes, develop a coffee planting initiative, work on PR and develop concepts and paperwork to help streamline the volunteer process.  The volunteers at Warm Heart often wear many hats and do a hundred things and are still able to be apart of my experience here in Thailand.

The three people that really had an impression on me were Antonia, Patrick and Mel. 

Antonia is one of those med students from Ireland that goes to school in Scotland (or is the other way around? I can’t remember now) that is tomboyish and frank.  Her personalility is one that naturally flows with mine.  My abrupt nature doesn’t freak her out.  She’s the type of atheist that can have an hour conversation with me about it and never once try and convince me that there isn’t no god.  She’s the type that takes comfort in the void that follows death.  In many ways I find this admirable—in many ways I find this sad—she was quite fine with that.  She been gone for almost a week now and really I only knew her a few days but I miss not having the opportunity to know her better.

Patrick is one of the funniest and mature 19 year olds I have ever met.  From UNC and southern at heart he has a charm about him that makes you immediately trust and like him.  He language skills are incredible and he would routinely take fruits, vegetables and peppers out of his pocket to munch on.  He was the kinda guy that worked his ass of, exercised and still had the time to have fun and enjoy himself.  He was a pleasure to work with and one of those people that you hope you one day cross paths with again.

Mel was my beloved little room mate for a week (her last week at warm heart actually).  Mel eased me into the house share situation with sweet grace—I mean she seriously handled me the first two days I quit smoking AND put up with my silly antics of stir fried bacon and cabbage (actually its super good).  It was a pleasure being able to tell her about who I was and what made me tick and to talk about life, love and other mysteries.  Her emotional self and mine seemed to coexist together quite nicely and I was blessed to have her as my roomie (even if it was for just one week). 

We welcomed Divya yesterday and it’s a blessing to know she’ll be here for 10 months.  Seeing and meeting new people is nice but having some consistency has its benefits as well.  Me and Divya will be getting out $3.00 massages today after work and just hanging out with each other.  Sometimes it’s the best way.  As always our normal thai staff is present and accounted for and the adventure continues.

A Day In the Life.

Adventures in Thailand never cease to amaze me.  The best thing about living out in the country side is the few parallels that occur between the country of Northern Thailand and the country landscape of Georgia and North Carolina.  For example, when a stranger breaks down in front of your country store they not only check on you they proceed to fix your bike. 

Let me explain, after coming back from Chiang Mai yesterday I stopped by the office to pick up my bike (about 7 kilometers from Phrao) Hank to take him home so I’d have him to ride in the next morning.  We get on the highway and for whatever reason after only about kilometer my bike started slowing down and wouldn’t pop into gear.  I puttered by a little country store and finally pulled off the road just past it.  Stumped I pulled out my phone to call PJ (our local translator and handy man) when a nice looking (but completely obliteratingly drunk) man comes up to me. He hopped on the bike and tried to crank the engine twice. 

Now, I’m just standing there in shock. A drunk Thai man who’s no taller than I am is trying to start my bike.  I hurriedly call PJ.  The man hops off, after not being able to start and crosses his arms like he’s thinking.  He grunts and walks off—my keys in hand. 

PJ picks up the phone. “Um.. PJ my bike stopped working and this drunk guy.. well it looks like he’s trying to fix it but he just walked off with my keys..” there was a long pause “Uh, yea, Hannah I’m on my way just hold tight.. don’t let him drive off with the bike.” And with that I hung up.  Two second later my new drunken friend walks over with some sort of tool.  He fiddles with the bike, opens up the gas tanks, does a few more fiddles then puts the keys in and starts the bike with one huge crank.  He hops off and smiles hugely and give me two thumbs up and says “OK!!” 

“Ok” were the only words he said to me.  He staggered off and I called PJ to cancel the rescue mission.  Drunk old man, country store, fixes bike for free and walks off without so much as a conversation… I rode off and made it home before the local Market got to busy.

Upon arriving at the market I ran in to Mel (my current volunteer roommate) and we instantly decided to check out the new Tesco Lotus Express.  The opening of which is akin to a Walmart opening up in rural GA.  The store had been open for less than 24 hours and shelves were becoming bare, there was a line out the door and navigating the store was like figuring your way through back country dirt roads full of pot holes and road kill.  It was good fun seeing what was on sale and discovering bacon (which before you couldn’t get before) and prices were a few cents cheaper than the 7-11.  

Its nice to have another piece of comfort and convenience out in the country side.  But like Walmart, which comes with its advantages and disadvantages, so it is with Tesco.  Tesco provides jobs, truth.  But it pays its workers minimum wages for long hours and routinely puts local shops out of business… meaning after a year in Phrao there will be less people employed than before it arrived.  Tesco provides towns with convenience, truth.  But it comes at a cost—with local stores not being able to compete they will shut down and the local economy actually decreases. 

The only thing that has Tesco beat on price is produce.  The local market supplies fresh fruit and vegetables from local farmers.  A head of cabbage at the market will cost your 5 baht (15 cents) where as the Tesco sells the same cabbage from non local farmers for three times that price (about 14 baht or 42 cents).  Tesco ships it produce (so its not as fresh and uses more gas) and also wraps it in plastic, increasing a carbon foot print and waste in a nation that burns its trash (including plastics). 

Now don’t get me wrong.  Tesco sells bacon.  I will purchase my bacon and other products from there that I would not be able to get in Phrao otherwise.  But for this farang when it comes to my local community and farmers I’ll support the market (and my wallet) by purchasing local.  This enables me to contribute to the economy and people that I’m here to serve to begin with.  Its a good thing.